All anyone has to do look at the upcoming and extraordinary crop of African designers not only from Africa but also Haiti to see What's Coming. I have a closet full of Stella Jean, and I can't wait to get my hands on so much more.
The fashion industry has long, ripped off cultural designs. Rich white designers have trolled indigenous peoples all over the world- and may I please point out Ralph Lauren and his love of using Navajo designs for example- without giving any credit or paying a single penny to those Native and Indigenous peoples who created them. That is mass copyright theft of the worst kind.
To wit: I traveled to the Hmong villages of Vietnam, then when I came back just for a hoot I looked to see if anyone had appropriated their designs. Yep. On the catwalk, a shift featuring their embroidery.
I have written about fashion for years and was a great fan of Talley's. However, I fear that in his great desire to be close to the industry, he sold himself down the river at great cost to his personal integrity. Fashion eats its own children and spits them out. Talley was a meal that was consumed, a man valued for his penis, and then discarded by those he loved when they were done with him. Wintour is caricature in an industry that desperately needs a color change.
But it is coming.